Above the white sand beaches in Whirlpool Canyon lies a 19th-century secret lightly etched in ancient stone. Two initials and the date 1838 tell of a lost world and one man’s singular perseverance.

For years, I’ve been looking for Denis Julien. A Creole French-American beaver fur trapper, Julien lived his life on the fringes...

Gulliford's travels

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